Saturday, 30 June 2012

The scars of history run deep


I am not a historian and neither am I a particularly reflective person (to my demise says dear Bronni) but as we travel through Bulgaria, Serbia and Croatia I cannot ignore the fact that a lot of this country has been under a communist regime for more than 50 years  in the not to distant past and that Serbia, Croatia and Bosnia were fighting each other based on ethnicity less than 20 years ago.

Cruising along the autostrad at 130km/hr we drive through a Croatia today of a thriving country with large fields of wheat, sunflower, hay for the cattle and vegetables.  Infrastructure works are happening, buildings are being erected and the people as busy going to work, to school, to play.

But if you stop for a moment and reflect on the life of a Croatian or Serbian living side by side in the same street, with the scars of the past you must wonder at the stability of the community.

Consider the Croatian town Vukovar. In 1991 the population was 44,000 with 44% Croatians and 37% Serbians. As Croatia edged away from Yugoslavia tensions mounted and in August the Yugoslavia-Serbian forces launched a full scale artillery and infantry assault in attempt to seize the town. Half of the population fled and the remaining, pitifully out numbered held the invaders off until November when they surrendered. The Serbians entered the town on the 20th November and removed 400 patients from the local hospital, the staff and their families. 200 were massacred. It is estimated that 2000 people were killed from this town , 4000 wounded, several thousand who disappeared presumably into a mass grave and 22,000 who were forced into exile. .  

Vukovar is but one example and the atrocities were not all one sided.

Consider the personal and property loss, the grief and the anger.  The issues around ownership of land, what happens when a Serbian comes back to claim his house.

While the only visible thing remaining is a monument and some bullet holes in the wall, I wonder if the scars would have healed and how I would feel if the cause of my loss and grief 20 yrs ago is living across the street?

In 2007 at the War Tribunal two Yugoslav army officers were sentenced to 20 yrs and 5 yrs in prison for their role in the  Vukovar massacre.

Would this make me feel any better? Would this bring back my son, my daughter, wife friend or business?

You decide

Bulgaria




Hasn’t really recovered from the Communist Error. (ah I think I mean era)  
The countryside is deserted of people, the farms are poorly managed, the equipment comes from WWII and the architect  (if he/she existed) could only think of blocks and the  color off white. Actually I really think these building were designed by engineers. …. Functionality to the max. low cost.

Perhaps this is the Christchurch solution. Could make my son in law JuJu’s life easier.

Great place for monasteries and wines if this is your thing.

Driving in Sofiya almost matched Nairobi but had the added mix of trams with their own rules. 
Serbia

Serbia was a surprise particular given the current economic conditions of Europe. The infrastructure spend seems disproportionate to its population. There were a lot of Merc’s, Porsche’s, BMW’s and Audi’s.   
Not sure where the money was coming from. Foreign aid??
The farms looked to be small but well managed but I don’t think it was the farmers driving these vehicles. They seemed to use their tractor for everything.

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